Thumper Club Forum
Technical => Project Progress => Topic started by: iansoady on February 21, 2023, 01:56:00 PM
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Look away now you dyed-in-the-wool single fanatics.
I've now agreed to buy the major components of my latest project. The Greeves is loaded on the van and will be on the ferry later today; the Triumph bits are promised to me tomorrow. Both sellers were very nice people as were the transport folk - Shiply for the bits, Acceleration for the Greeves (http://www.motorcycletransportservices.co.uk/).
Unlike the Honda, aesthetics will have to take a back seat.
What I have: Greeves:
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/Michael%201.jpg)
Some of the parts:
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/parts1.jpg)
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/parts4.jpg)
I'll probably discover that I don't have enough for a complete engine....
This is the kind of thing I'm after:
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/exhaust 9.jpg)
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Looks like you have enough parts for more than one engine Ian 🤔. Good luck and I'm sure it will be as aesthetically pleasing as you want it to be.
Please keep us informed of your progress!
Ian 👍
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Yes, all snug in the garage now and starting to check what I've got.
I think I have a decent 500 barrel which is either standard or on first rebore and a set of +.040" low compression pistons to suit. One crankshaft seems to be in good condition with good threads and no play on the big ends (although will strip to check) and no marks on the timing side journal. The relevant head is very corroded but will have it vapour blasted to see what's underneath - hopefully will be OK with maybe a light skim of the head face.
I'll print out the parts list and go through methodically to see what is useable, what is scrap, and what I need to source. In parallel sorting out registration for the Greeves which I need to do while it still retains its (non-original but correct period) 9E engine.
Here is the Greeves in the garage with some of the Triumph bits. The Greeves is actually in nice condition with a few battle scars.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/garage.jpg)
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Morning Ian,
That garage is starting to look better already! ;)
Mucking mine out at the moment! :o Tidy sum from the scrappy! ;) Brass £3-20/Kg and mixed scrap iron/steel £0-18Kg. Copper yet to be investigated?
Enjoy the puzzle and good health, Bill
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Looks like a great haul Ian and an interesting project to get to grips with over the coming months. I always find it exciting going through all the bits once I have got them at home. Lots of room to play with in the garage as well.Too cold for me today, for either riding or tinkering-roll on proper Spring (when it eventaully comes).
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Yes, funny how all that room disappears as bits get strewn around!
The plan is to get all the engine bits sorted out while I wait for the Greeves to be registered which may take a while, depemding on whether it needs to be physically examined by the GRA. I'll build the engine bottom end on the bench but do the top end, gearbox etc when it's installed in the bike as I'm too feeble to hoist the completed unit into place......
I'm also wondering whether I can source an alternative front wheel as that British Hub 6" brake looks very weedy for the might Triumph engine.
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OK, moving on....
I've joined the Greeves Riders' Association and started the process of registering the bike as is with its Villiers engine. Apparently this is the way to go then merely notify them of an engine change once that is sorted out. I must start it up and take a video as the engine will be up for sale once all the legal stuff is done.
I've been checking out what I have in terms of engine. I have one good crankshaft complete with con rods with good bearing shells. Sadly (or maybe not*) these are for the 350 engine as the gudgeon pins are smaller on these. I have a decent 350 cylinder head which needs tidying up and a pair of 350 barrels which measure up as standard bore complete with a pair of pistons. Apart from the top ring being stuck in one of these the pistons are OK and seem to fit in the bores reasonably well. They're low compression T21 / 3TA rather than the high compression Tiger 90 version which is probably just as well.
I have 2 crankcases. One has a good drive side ball main bearing; the other has the notorious Triumph bush which is not scored or scuffed. I know you're not supposed to do this but a mix and match (ie one side from each "pair") seems to work quite well with the crank spinning freely. It could well be of course that none of the halves started life together anyway.
There is just perceptible movement of the crankshaft in the bush. A purist would change it (but as you all know I'm far from that) but that needs line boring after a fairly fraught fitting process and I'm trying to minimise costs. There'll be plenty to spend later......
Fortunately I have the later exhaust camshaft with the points on the end and the corresponding timing cover rtaher than the early distributor type but it will be a while before I get to that stage.
No photos as yet as there's nothing much to see.
I can't decide what to do with the surplus stuff. I could ebay individual items but that's a hassle. I could pack them all off to Pugh's auctioneers but possibly wouldn't get much. The best solution may be getting a stall at the VMCC Founder's Day autojumble in July. Decisions decisions.....
*I say maybe not as the full 500cc may be too much especially for the weedy front brake....
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Just thought you might like to see (and hear) the Greeves with its Villiers "power" plant:
I think you may understand why I want a Triumph unit in there....
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Cracking on but very slowly trying to make one (350cc as I don't have 500cc conrods) engine out of all the mismatched bits I have. Sadly although I had 2 sets of crankcases the drive side of one had been clumsily repaired and the timing side of the other would have needed a mainshaft bush fitted and line reamed. The bushes cost a fortune and line reaming would be expensive, so I've ended up with a mismatched pair which is not ideal. However test fitting of the crank and camshafts shows them to turn easily with only just perceptible play so that's the way I'll go.
I now have a pile of surplus parts going on ebay this week. I've sold a crusty 500cc cylinder head and been paid for the frame which a chap from Cork is coming across to collect some time.
And the dating officer from the Greeves riders' Association is coming on Tuesday to confirm the Greeves is what I say it is to get it registered and get the V5C. Hopefully with no problems.
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I was visited today by a very nice chap from the Greeves Riders' Association (much nicer name than "owners") who came to verify that my bike was what I said it was so that I can apply for a registration document and age-related number. The rule is to do this while it has its Villiers engine rather than the Triumph one - although that's a long way off - as that would probably end up with a Q plate and the need to MoT, pay road tax etc.
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I don't know if you still subscribe Ian, but there's an article in the latest Real Classics mag about a Triumph engined Greeves special which may be of interest.
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OK, moving on....
I've joined the Greeves Riders' Association and started the process of registering the bike as is with its Villiers engine. Apparently this is the way to go then merely notify them of an engine change once that is sorted out. I must start it up and take a video as the engine will be up for sale once all the legal stuff is done.
I've been checking out what I have in terms of engine. I have one good crankshaft complete with con rods with good bearing shells. Sadly (or maybe not*) these are for the 350 engine as the gudgeon pins are smaller on these. I have a decent 350 cylinder head which needs tidying up and a pair of 350 barrels which measure up as standard bore complete with a pair of pistons. Apart from the top ring being stuck in one of these the pistons are OK and seem to fit in the bores reasonably well. They're low compression T21 / 3TA rather than the high compression Tiger 90 version which is probably just as well.
I have 2 crankcases. One has a good drive side ball main bearing; the other has the notorious Triumph bush which is not scored or scuffed. I know you're not supposed to do this but a mix and match (ie one side from each "pair") seems to work quite well with the crank spinning freely. It could well be of course that none of the halves started life together anyway.
There is just perceptible movement of the crankshaft in the bush. A purist would change it (but as you all know I'm far from that) but that needs line boring after a fairly fraught fitting process and I'm trying to minimise costs. There'll be plenty to spend later......
Fortunately I have the later exhaust camshaft with the points on the end and the corresponding timing cover rtaher than the early distributor type but it will be a while before I get to that stage.
No photos as yet as there's nothing much to see.
I can't decide what to do with the surplus stuff. I could ebay individual items but that's a hassle. I could pack them all off to Pugh's auctioneers but possibly wouldn't get much. The best solution may be getting a stall at the VMCC Founder's Day autojumble in July. Decisions decisions.....
*I say maybe not as the full 500cc may be too much especially for the weedy front brake....
dont sell any of your spares till its done and running as you want it. i absolutely guarantee that you will need something that you sell within weeks of getting it on the road. after its all sorted, then is the time to offload the spares. bitter experience tells me this.......
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You should have told me this a couple of weeks ago John.....
I am however pretty sure that I have almost evrything that I need although time will tell. I've been quite successful in moving stuff on via ebay etc and have recouped about £300 on bits I definitely won't need - like a 500cc head, pistons and barrels as well as couple of centre stands - and have made sure I've kept all the fasteners etc. A trial build of the bottom end looks promising even though the crankcases are mismatched - I had 2 "pairs" but one side of each pair was in poor condition for one reason or another. But everything turns smoothly when bolted up and there is no step between the crankcase halves at the barrel joint. I have read of people recommending clouting these with soft hammers to rectify such steps....
A bunch of other stuff I definitely don't need - 17" wheels, a Norton front wheel for some reason, camshafts etc have gone off to HJ Pugh for their April auction. I don't expect great results but it saves messing about. And a Triumph frame is going to a bloke in Ireland - he's paid me for it but intends to come and pick it up at some time in the future.
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I don't know if you still subscribe Ian, but there's an article in the latest Real Classics mag about a Triumph engined Greeves special which may be of interest.
Yes, thanks Pete - arrived at my local library yesterday. Remarkably uninformative (and uninformed) as usual from Mr Miles - eg the comments about banana forks (those fitted aren't) and that only certain frames are suitable for Triumph engines (all the pre-65 or so frames are OK). I was hoping for some useful hints & tips.....
Slowly cracking on with dry engine build while I wait for date confirmation documents so I can register it. Yesterday I ground in the valves and was rewarded by no leakage when all assembled. I did have to remove some pitting from the exhausts by putting them in the lathe and using a hand-held dremel with a small grinding stone.
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The dating ceretificate from the GRA arrived this morning so filled in the V55/5 form - not without some hesitation, repetition and deviation - and posted the pack off with £55 to DVLA. Here's hoping they are co-operative.
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I expect yopu've all had sleepless nights worrying about how I've been getting on with the project. Fear not - all will be revealed.
I'm still waiting with my fingers crossed for my V5C to arrive. They haven't cashed my cheque yet. So am occupying myself by doing various dry (and wet) builds of the engine. I've now completed the bottom end - some of which is odd to my mind. As well as giving a torque figure for the big end nuts Triumph also specify a stretch on the bolt of .004" to .005". I think I've got it right....
Despite having mismatched crankcases from different years not to mention different capacities, the bottom end and timing gear has all gone together remarkably well. There's no perceptible step between the case sides at the barrel face and the crank and camshafts all spin easily. So I'm hopeful about that side.
Less so about the notorious pushrod tube sealing which has had me scratching my head for ages. There is an annular seal at the bottom of the tube which fits over the tappet block and a Viton ring which sits in the head to seal the top flange of the tube. The book and all the "experts" I've consulted say there should be .040" - .060" "crush" on this top ring when the head is bolted down. However, assembling with no seals at all leaves the head floating .040" or so above the barrel face - which coincidentally is close to the thickness of the head gasket. I measured this using plasticine in the joint and tightening the head down with no gasket.
Obviously, putting seals in would mean that there would be no clamping force on the head gasket at all. So after much thought I've decided to turn .060" off the bases of the pushrod tubes to allow them to sit further down and get this crush. What can possibly go wrong? More to the point, why do I need to do this? My only theory is that the head face has been skimmed at some point. Remember that this engine is being built from a fairly random selection of bits which someone else has discarded after selecting better ones.
Just looking at the photos I have to make sure that the reduced portion of the tube won't catch on the tappet block. And of course I will have to deal with any effects on valve / pushrod geometry if as I suspect the head has been skimmed.
Some photos:
This is the barrel after tightening down the head showing the flattened plasticine.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/pushrod%20tube%201.jpg)
This shows how the pushrod tube sits on the tappet block.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/pushrod%20tube%202.jpg)
Another view showing the flange at the top of the tube and the (annealed) head gasket - which by the way was rock hard when it arrived.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/pushrod%20tube%203.jpg)
This is the recess in the head that the flange fits into.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/pushrod%20tube%204.jpg)
The first pushrod tube in the 4 jaw chuck - it's too big for the 3 jaw.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/pushrod%20tube%205.jpg)
And this is the Viton sealing ring which is .090" thick uncompressed.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/pushrod%20tube%206.jpg)
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And what arrived in the post today? A V5C with the correct details including the currently fitted Villiers 9E engine. Oddly enough DVLA don't seem to havebothered cashing my cheque! So onward and upward. I have completed the Triumph bottom end which all looks good and have just trial assembled the top end to check valve / rocker action which all seem to work well.
I'm not finally fitting all that at this stage as it will make the engine unit very heavy - I anticipate plenty of juggling to get everything in line even using engine plates made by Phil Hyde, a respected Grumph builder.
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And what arrived in the post today? A V5C with the correct details including the currently fitted Villiers 9E engine. Oddly enough DVLA don't seem to havebothered cashing my cheque! So onward and upward. I have completed the Triumph bottom end which all looks good and have just trial assembled the top end to check valve / rocker action which all seem to work well.
I'm not finally fitting all that at this stage as it will make the engine unit very heavy - I anticipate plenty of juggling to get everything in line even using engine plates made by Phil Hyde, a respected Grumph builder.
Happy to pop round and lend a hand to help fitting the engine Ian, if you think it would help...
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Many thanks Pete, I'll bear that in mind. If you get an anguished call from Redditch.....
It'll be quite a while before I'm at that stage however.
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Just when it was all going so well.....
The bloke who's making the engine plates tells me the frame is bent. Apparently this is very common. I have a number of options, the easiest of which is to put the whole lot on ebay. But I'm made of slightly sterner stuff. In truth it doesn't look that bad to me - but what do I know?
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/engine%20plates%204.jpg)
But off to France for 3 weeks shortly so all troubles will be forgotten in a haze of good wine & food....
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Eek! I know it's an alloy frame, but it doesn't look like it needs more than a little tweak to me...
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Absolutely, nothing that a big hammer wouldn’t cure 🤦???🤦???😁
Ps.. I am joking
Name withheld to protect the innocent 😉
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One of the gurus in the Greeves Roders Association tells me that a big scaffold pole is the answer. But I'm scared......
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Hi Ian
Sounds like you are putting your previous engineering experience to good use. It is that which always stops me taking on a project like this not having been an engineer and knowing that at some point for a project like this something will need turning or milling etc. I could wipe its bum, but don't ask me to ream anything (reaming people is definitely frowned upon in care work!).
As for the bent frame, it doesn't look very bent so does it depend on how fast you are going to ride the finished bike? That might be a naive question, but might also be relevant.
Anyway keep up the great work as you always seem to be working on projects that I would if I was of any practical use.
Ian
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I'm sure you already know Ian, but the Greeves company has been reborn. Might be worth asking their advice?
http://www.greevesmotorcyclesltd.com/ (http://www.greevesmotorcyclesltd.com/)
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I've heard some questionable stuff about the new Greeves company Pete. The Greeves Riders' Association has some really knowledgeable and helpful people but of course most come from a purist point of view where if something isn't exactly as it "should" be then it must be dealt with. By all accounts these frames commonly bend and I expect there are loads running around in that state.
For comparison this is one from one of said gurus..... Looks significantly worse than mine.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/32TA%20headstock%20lean%20p1.jpg)
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Aye Ian,
I bet that handled like a navvie waltzing up the street after a night on the bevvy! ;)
Did it " ...... just happen"? Or, was some part of the scenery involved in an abrupt halt to progress? Hopefully, it was the latter and not the former, or else I would suspect CocaCola/ pot metal, rather than ex WWII airplane aluminium alloy! Surely Bert wouldn't use something shonky?
Hope you get yours "unbent", with a large scaffold pole and some heat in short order.
Good health, Bill
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Here are my engine plates. The bloke making them - who is very well respected in Tri-Greeves circles - reckones he can compenstae for the bend by adjusting the sizes of spacers which he has to make anyway. So here's hoping.
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Its really nice to see work done by people who know what they're doing. Those look lovely and make the project a little bit more real.
Ian
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Its really nice to see work done by people who know what they're doing. Those look lovely and make the project a little bit more real.
Ian
Yes don’t they just. Look really good, plus good news for Ian that he can hopefully compensate for the twist in the frame. 🤞
Cheers, Michael
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They're not going to be cheap but given the many areas where it could all go terribly wrong I thought it best to get them made by an expert......
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They're not going to be cheap but given the many areas where it could all go terribly wrong I thought it best to get them made by an expert......
If it’s any consolation Ian. I usually find that if “you buy cheap, you’ll buy twice” and that’s why I mainly try to “do it right, do it once”
Can’t remember where I picked the quotes up but definitely found them both to be generally correct over the years.
👍
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I agree with you Michael and know that you will 'measure twice and cut once'. My old boss, he of the radiator story, was a man of 'robust' language and one of his was 'any one can make a mistake, but only a total 'see you next Tuesday' (you can work it out!) makes the same mistake twice.
By the look of those engine plates the man who made them certainly measures twice and isn't prone to making mistakes either once or twice.
Ian
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Moving slowly on after a great trip to Brittany....
Picked up the engine plates yesterday and fitted the engine bottom half. One plate needed slightly trimming to avoid collision with the crankcase casting but otherwise everything slotted straight in. Please excuse the messy backgrounds.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/fitted%20engine%20plates%201.jpg)
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/fitted%20engine%20plates%202.jpg)
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"Messy backgrounds"! Appears "organised" to me and the engine plates look to be tickety boo to boot.
Good health, Bill
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"Messy backgrounds"! Appears "organised" to me and the engine plates look to be tickety boo to boot.
Good health, Bill
What more can one say that hasn’t already been said in the previous post. 👍👍
Cheers, Michael
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Aye Ian,
If your looking for an exhaust system, you could do worse than contact Raysons Exhausts. His Grandfather was one of the founders of Unity Equipe, Rochdale. I have attached a link to a Facebook "Reel" (short video!) below:
Raysons_Exhausts_Tri/Greeves_500cc_exhaust_system_make_fitting (https://www.facebook.com/reel/1794841897580158)
Good health, Bill
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Thanks Bill. As always I'm striving to keep the costs manageable so have a scruffy pair of standard pipes which I'll use for the initial build at least but will bear Raysons in mind. I think I've seen them featured in various classic bike magazines over the years. I am wondering about silencing and was considering trying db killers in the otherwise open pipes but feel that might be a bit antisocial.
This morning I've been fitting the barrels. Eagle eyed observers may note that I've also had to make a slight mod to the engine plate to allow the gearbox drain / level plug to be removed and inserted. Where the holding down strap is. I've had a polite word with the chap who supplied them. Otherwise they fit beautifully with only very minor adjustments.
I'm going to build the engine unit including gearbox and final drive without putting the frame on as I've checked that for fit and access is so much easier. Those pesky cylinder base nuts tried my patience however and I've had to grind soen one of my nice combination spanners to get in.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/barrels%20on.jpg)
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Aye Ian,
Used to use the "silencers" from the end of the VW Beetle system, they effectively take the "crack" off the exhaust note, don't impede gas flow and are relatively cheap and easy to purchase. I understand why you initially wish to keep costs down, until you have the beastie up and running and see how you meld with it.
As for the cylinder base nuts! :( They look a right pain in the buttocks. But, torquing, allen cap screws at the base of an SRX cylinder can be "trying" as well! ;)
I'm still cleaning carbon and crud from the internals of the Ducati 350 at present, inbetween other household chores etc.
Good health, Bill
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Thanks Bill, I've heard about these VW mutes but no idea what they look like / where to get them. I'm considering this type of thing: I have one fitted in the XBR Goldie "silencer" and it does seem to cut the noise down a bit.
(https://www.hojstyling.se/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/excnrk.png)
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Aye Ian,
That is the sort of thing required.
I was thinking on the lines of these: eBay Lot number: 133304876616
However, 'Feked' produce this, which appears similar, if not the same as yours, in a range of diameters.
Link:Feked_silencer-baffles-bolt-in-type (https://www.feked.com/silencer-baffles-bolt-in-type.html)
The latter is probably your preferred option. ;)
The main thing to watch for is that there are the depressed/punched holes as these disrupt the exhaust pulses and if you can reduce the area of the exhaust outlet by 25% of the exhaust valve area the you should ensure that the exhaust gases speed is not reduced and encourage scavenging of the cylinder at the end of the exhaust stroke (Motad knowledge, NOT MINE, but used by me in my copy of their design for a single cylinder silencer).
Good health, Bill
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Yes, the feked one is the type - I assume these orginate from the far east as it looks the same as the one I have in my XBR which I got from my local classic bike parts shop.
Initially at any rate I just want it a bit quieter than open pipes....
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Cylinder head now on. I was a bit nervous about this as people have said it's hard to locate pushrods etc but it all went together very easily. No doubt I have something wrong. It was much easier to do the engine assembly without the frame getting in the way.
The pushrod tubes are notorious for leaking oil but hopefully the wellseal I've used everywhere will stop that. Who knows?
Next job is to insert the gearbox internals - I've done test assemblies of this so don't anticipate too may issues.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/head%20on%201.jpg)
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/head%20on%202.jpg)
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I thought I'd do a trial assembly of the frame loops and tanks etc - looking quite good although the tank is very close to the rocker boxes. I've used 2 of the head bolts that have a threaded extension for a head steady but since the photo have replaced these with ordinary ones as I'm not fitting a head steady - I may regret this later. That gives me an extra inch or so even with the rocker feed installed. I have the gearbox internals ready to fit - just waiting for some Allen screws from Nooky's nuts. I'd already bought a set but they seem to have made a bid for freedom.....
Looking good I think although the hard stuff is yet to do.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/progress%201.jpg)
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Moving on....
I've made the proper mounting studs for the engine plates - previously just cobbled together with various odd metric bolts. These are 303 stainless - 3/8" diameter, Cycle 26tpi thread. I cut the threads in the lathe then tidy up with the die as the lathe leaves a slightly rough surface finish. A couple of hours' work here;
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/studs.jpg)
Also fitted the gearbox internals which went well. More than can be said for the kickstart return spring which is notoriously tricky. I ended up holding the plate in place with a washer and jubilee clip to stop it popping off its locating register and using a long screwdriver to coax the other end round and over its abutment. The Triumph manual suggests doing it the other way round but I couldn't get that to work. The inner cover is temprarily held snug with slave screws etc to give the wellseal a chance to cure - I'm leaving the outer cover off for the time being as it gets in the way of the oil junction union etc.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/kickstart%20spring.jpg)
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Looks like good steady progress Ian.
All the best, Bill
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looking good there, makes my efforts with #10 look a bit tame. it looks from you previous pics that you'll end up with a spare triumph engine ? any plans for that ?
Steve.
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I've managed to flog off most of the superfluous bits - some via ebay, some via an auction at Pugh's of Ledbury. I was surprised how well the latter went, clearing over £200 for what looked mostly junk.....
Also good news this morning - the revised V5C arrived with the new engine number and capacity so it's all legal.
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Also good news this morning - the revised V5C arrived with the new engine number and capacity so it's all legal.
Now that is good news Ian. ;D
All the best, Bill
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Thanks Bill. Other people seem to have had immense difficulty. Getting the initial age related number was easy with the help of the Greeves Riders' Association dating letter. To get the engine change I included a receipt from the bloke I bought the bits off (sort of.....) stating engine number and capacity but not mentioning Triumph. Seems to have worked well.
Of course anybody with a computer and printer could make such a receiot. Just saying.......
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Time to check whether the gearbox sprocket lines up with the rear sprocket. This is with the 3/8 width gearbox and the 1/4 rear wheel so checking on the inside faces. It's looking pretty good - thanks to Phil Hyde who made the engine plates and spacers. I will be fitting a much smaller rear sprocket anyway as I'm not intending to compete at Red Marley.
I'll be buying one of these: https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p20229935/Branded-51-Tooth-10B-Simplex-Platewheel-for-5/8-inch-Pitch-Chain/product_info.html but am dithering between 51 and 53 teeth - I loike an odd number as it spreads the wear. 51 will give me 12.4 mph / 1,000 engine rpm; 53 will give 11.95 with the 19 tooth gearbox sprocket. Quite low geared but should give a top speed north of 50 which will be fine.
I'll have the sprocket machined by Nametab here in Redditch who give an excellent and good value service.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/alignment%201.jpg)
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/alignment%202.jpg)
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/alignment%203.jpg)
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Aye Ian,
I know you have a problem with Facebook, but please try this link. It is not the SZR660 but the Grumph that also features that might appeal! ;) There are multiple images. ;D
Grumph_and_SZR660_run_Facebook_link (https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=1943927212632623&set=pcb.9593669347370060)
Good health, Bill
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Ah yes, the irrepressible (some may have other descriptions!) Paul Miles. He did a writeup of this bike in Real Classic magazine. I believe he wants to sell it for upwards of £6,000. If only....
I don't have a problem as such with FB just hate it and its whole approach. But I do have a presence albeit with minimal and totally false data.
Moving on with my build, I think I've eventually got the clutch right although won't really know till the work is much progressed. It will turn the engine over on the kickstart without slipping though. And I've also got the swinging arm with its various spacers in place although had to resort to a Spanish Windlass to pull everything in line. All those years in the scouts not altogether wasted.
Also fitted a Kenda 3.50x18 back tyre as the one the bike came with was a 4.00 and almost touching the swinging arm. Shame as it was a new MT34.
I think I'm going to do for a dual output coil fired by the contact breakers after some thought. This will have a wasted spark but will make timing etc easier and will also fit under the tank. I did mislead myself for ages thinking that it wouldn't work with two contact breakers but was put right by someone on the Britbike Triumph forum.
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Aye Ian,
My apologies if I touched a raw nerve, with the subject matter of my last post. I dinnae ken any of the individuals in the post.
I shall enjoy reading and viewing how your Grumph progresses.
Good health, Bill
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No need for apologies Bill, no nerves left, raw or otherwise!
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It's beginning to look a lot like.... a motorcycle rather than a collection of bits. Oil tank brackets made, froth tower removed, swinging arm spindle made and fitted, forks fitted with help from her outside....
I've been fiddling with the exhausts trying to get a low level system to work but think I'm going to have to have a siamese system made. Any suggestions?
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/forks.jpg)
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Aye Ian,
This'll no be cheap! ::)
But the man knows his stuff and you'll have to join the queue.
Raysons_exhausts_grandfather_was_Peter_Lee_Unity_Equipe (https://www.raysonsuk.com/)
The website "Gallery" is testimony to the art of sand bending mild steel tube into sinuous shapes that fit beautifully! ;D
Good health, Bill
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Yes, that was my worry. I'm definitely at the cheap and cheerful end of the spectrum!
I suppose another approach might be to get some pre-prepared bends and have it welded up. I do have a little arc welder but my skills are not quite up to it. And I just noticed this morning that my local expert welding place seems to have closed down!
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Aye Ian,
I just so happen ........! ;)
Before I decided to modify my old gutted Goldie pipe, I too went down the fabrication route, this site might be helpful! ;)
Link: Everyexhaustpart_website (https://www.everyexhaustpart.com/cart/index.php?route=common/home)
Cheers, Bill
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You read my mind - as it happens they're just round the corner from me.......
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Hi there
That's looking really nice now, I have always had a soft spot for Triumph twins in any sort of off-road guise. The Greeves route is lovely and I remember once a long time ago a photo in Classic Bike of a 500 twin in an Enfield Crusdaer frame done as a trials bike - gorgeous. But one thing that really sets off a Triumph twin is the exhaust pipes. I've never been a fan of straight-throughs or even splayed pipes particularly, but show me a well made high-level siamese and I'm in heaven!
I'm sure whatever you end up with will look very nice as your other specials and progress on this one all look very classy.
Ian
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I think I may have found another exhaust solution: flexible stainless pipe. From the same people as Bill mentioned. I'm going to pop over this aftrnoon and have a look. Cheap enough and won't look too out of place - but may disappoint Ian Itsme....
https://www.everyexhaustpart.com/cart/polylock-flexible-tube/38-1mm-id-x-500mm-long-stainless-steel-t304-polylock.html
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Just popped over there and it's a brilliant place who also bend pipes to your spec. But the convoluted stuff actually looks pretty good and for the price can't be beaten. So when I know lengths I'll be back there.
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Good to know Ian. Thanks. Oh and thanks to Bill for posting the original link up 👍👍
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Hi Ian
Thank you for your concern over my disappointment level, but let me assure you that I could never be disappointed with stainless steel.
Ian
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Pleased the link was of use and from the look of it, I'd rather have the polylock flexible pipe than groovy multi-coloured, multi-welded bitsa pipe! ;)
Good health, Bill
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Battery box showing Zener diode and rectifier. The clips on the securing strap (made from an old inner tube) look a bit crude so will remake them.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/battery%201.jpg)
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/battery%202.jpg)
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I needed a rear sprocket as the Triumph uses a 5/8" x 3/8" chain and the existing Greeves one was 1/2" x 1/4". So I bought a blank 51 tooth item from Simply Bearings - they call it a platewheel - and had the central bore increased, five 5/16" holes bored, the centre relieved to miss the spoke heads and lightening holes machined in by Simon at Nametab Engineering wh're local to me. I think you'll agree that £40 was a fair price.
The other things in the picture are tapered punches I've made up in various sizes to help studs and bolts into misaligned holes.......
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/sprocket.jpg)
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nice job @ a very fair price
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Just finsihing off the minimal wiring. I've gone for a dual lead coil giving an idle spark which involved paralelling the points. Can you get the little special terminals? Can you hellaslike. So ended up reducing the size of those crimped on ones with the Dremel. But soldered rather than crimped of course. Getting a decent spark when flicking the points.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/points.jpg)
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that picture brings back memories :( stuck in a layby , in the rain, on my Franric Bastard, trying to lock in a stripped thread on the screw that clamps the static point .... of course the silver paper from a fag packet did it in the end ... oh what fun we had ;D
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Yes indeed, I'm hoping not to have to resort to such methods.....
To be honest I've been surprised how I had virtually a whole engine in my pile of bits and how it went together relatively easily. But of course haven't tried to start it yet.
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A bit more progress. Oil tank all sorted out and plumbed in (pics to follow as it's on the other side). Chain fitted - it needed a cranked (half) link which was difficult to find. Chinese Mikuni copy carb fitted - no idea whether it will work but the correct monobloc is in a right state and this was only £16 delivered from China. But the major step forward is starting work on the exhaust - this is the left (drive) side one with the polylock flexible section inserted and a "chopper pot" silencer. I did try a chrome one but it made everything else look too scruffy.
The exhaust is in place but not finally snugged down but I'm pleased with the look and I think I can see how to sort the rear brake pedal out.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/exhaust.jpg)
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The other side....
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/exhaust2.jpg)
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Aye Ian,
Cranked links readily available from the "The Chain Man". Link: The_Chain_Man_link (https://the-chain-man.co.uk/)
Based at Stourport-on-Severn, just a nice jaunt away for you. ;)
Good health, Bill
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Thanks Bill, didn't think of him. I got one from simply bearings in the end.
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now that is looking bloody tasty!!
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Thanks Steve. I've just been playing about and can get the silencers a bit lower and parallel with the top tubes which looks better. The advantages of flexi tubing!
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I think this looks tidier: I need another quid's worth of steel to make longer struts.... I also need some alloy sheet to make a chainguard.
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/exhaust3.jpg)
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/exhaust4.jpg)
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Making progress Ian. ;)
Good health, Bill
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Made the chainguard - total cost about £4......
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/chainguard.jpg)
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Not at all bad Ian. However if I'd made it I would have made sure it was too short, uneven along it's length and would have had 5 holes for the bracket as 2 of them would have been drilled in the wrong place!
Seriously that is looking really nice, lovely job.
Ian
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Finished!
Well, sort of. It would be better if I could get it to start.....
(https://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/complete01.jpg)
(https://www.iansoady.org.uk/Greeves/images/complete02.jpg)
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Smashing looking bike Ian, I hope it goes as well as it looks!
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Many thanks Pete.
A quick sqirt of easy start to wake it up, a bit of oil in the bores to help compression and a squirt of contact cleaner on the points produced this (unfortunately filling the garage with fumes):
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;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Those points needed a rub with an emery board, but good to know that the points cleaner worked. As for the reek, share the tunes with the neighbours! ;)
Good health, Bill
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I was going to have a little run out on it yesterday but discovered I'd left the ignition switched on overnight and that has fried the coil (a double ended job giving a wasted spark). Doh! I'll pop out and get another this morning although at £40 I don't want to do that too often. I'll rig up an LED warning light to show when it's switched on. I don't have a "proper" ignition switch but am just using a dipswitch which I had in the parts pile.
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Good morning Ian, hope you got your switch sorted. Engine sounded nice, seems the little Chinese carb is coping. You'll have to let us know how it performs on the road/track or wherever you may take it
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Just seen these last few posts, not sure why I’d missed them originally 🤷???🤦???
Anyway, bit belated now but we’ll dine Ian. Nice to see a project come to fruition 👍👍
Cheers, Michael
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Work stalled at the moment due to shingles and resultant neuralgia which is made worse by standing in a cold garage. But have fitted full lighting kit and am rebuilding the Amal carb so hope to have it running again soon. Photos etc to follow (eventually!)