decomressor cable assy srx6/4

[Steve Lake]

just done a long awaited clutch/spring/cable change on #1. on reassembly tonight i find that the decompressor cable bottom nipple is hanging on by a thread.
checked for availability , fowlers show it as in stock at £31.92 + carr. kedo show it as in stock at 17.50 Euro + carr (15 euro).
part # - 1jk-12292-00

anyone ordered direct from Fowlers? and or Kedo ? just wondered what delivery times etc are like?

i'm thinking if fowlers show it as in stock, it doesn't mean they have it, it means that it is at the european hub in holland, (as my local dealer [tinklers] operate)
or any other possible locations/suppliers of this cable that you know of ?

[themoudie]

Aye Steve,

Kedo would be my option at that price, but I'm not sure of import taxes, VAT, etc! 

Being me, I would make one up from my stocks of materials! 

Do you require measurements? Or, can you use the threadbare example as a pattern? Venhill or Vehicle Wiring Parts for supplies, I prefer the former because of the range and accuracy of the components.

Hope you got that garden looking proper, bor! Keep you a troshin! 

Good health, Bill

[iansoady]

I also make my own cables but may be worth asking Johnson if they can do one for you. No proper website but FB here: https://www.facebook.com/jjcables/

I used to use VWP for components but now also use Venhill like Bill.

[Steve Lake]

thanks for the input Ian & Bill
yes, have always made up my own cables in the past, as i do for my rather special cycles.
so, i fished out some cable from my parts bin and set about the job.
all was going swimmingly, unsoldered the nipples from the old cable, well, nearly, first one came off a treat, second one just melted completely to a blob on the w/s floor!!
still, not a problem as several of my spare cables have nipples on, so, with my new (old) inner fed through and cleaned, popped on my one good nipple ..... would it solder on ...would it f*** !.
just couldn't tin the cable atall, so undeterred i tried my 2 other spare cables .... same result .... i suspect these cables (cycle brake cables) which are highly flexible ) are possibly stainless, certainly some substance which, however much it is cleaned & degreased and rubbed with emery just wouldn't tin .... bugger!!
thought about nipping into the local cycle shop and buying some new cables and giving it another go ... but think i may be throwing good money after bad ...
so i bit the bullet, rang fowlers and checked that 'in stock' meant it was actulally on their shelves or available at yamaha's european hub. being assured that it was on their shelves i ordered not one but two!! cables (cunning plan to avoid carriage costs  and will be needed for the srx6 i plan to build later this year from the box of parts i got from AndyM 7 years ago !!)
i will however attempt to repair the broken one, just to prove i can !!

[iansoady]

Modern cables often have nipples made out of solder or similar and just cast on to the cable. I always use fluxite paste to prepare cables before soldering but only have a small amount left in the tin I've had for donkey's years and don't know where to get more except in 500g tins which cost a fortune.

Baker's fluid is also good but corrosive so needs to be thoroughly washed off afterwards.

[Steve Lake]

i too have some fluxite in a small tin, think it was my fathers, so that dates it!!.
i dabble in stained glass work, so have a variety of flux's, got one that is water soluble , but none of them worked, the last time i had to solder ss i had to get it gavanised first before i could get a good joint.

[themoudie]

The only flux that I have to work isn't a flux! And it works on stainless steel wire cable/rope as well! 

Alu-bright or RaceGlaze Alu-deoxidiser or phosphoric acid, the same as they include in Coca Cola! The Alu-bright that I use (15% phosphoric acid) effervesces vigorously when I put the brass nipple and bird-nested cable in for 1 minute, before using tinman's solder (70% Pb Lead) in a large bolt with a hollowed head, held in a vice and melted using a MappX soldering torch. Once the solder is molten ensure the nipple is in place then plunge the whole into the solder. Remove the heat and then gently lift the cable and nipple out slowly. Any excess solder can be cleaned off with a fine warding file once hardened. Then wash the nipple and cable end with hot soapy water and lube with ACF-50 or your favourite cable lubricant.

Good health, Bill

[iansoady]

I use multicore solder and a little pencil soldering torch for my cables. Multicore is of course the same 60/40 as tinman's. I did make a solder pot as you describe but found it too fiddly.

Didn't know about alu-bright, I may investigate when my fluxite runs out!

[themoudie]

Aye Ian,

Multicore maybe OK, I am not sure of lead (Pb) content. Modern plumber's solder is useless, as it contains no lead (Pb), because it is used in drinking water systems.

I am awaiting "Chapter and verse" from the resident plumbers on this!   

Good health, Bill

[Moto63]

And right on time here is said plumb bob😉
Yes you can still buy leaded solder as you can (by regulation) still use it on central heating pipe work 😉... it’s defo NOT as good as it used to be (but what is🤦) which is most likely down to the fact that the lead content won’t be as high as it used to be. Definitely flows way better than the lead free solder though. Obviously only on heating pipelines 😉🚰
Name withheld to protect the innocent 😇

[iansoady]

My (almost exhausted) reel of multicore does say it's 60/40. My method is:

1. Cut the inner to length using a thin wheel in a dremel
2. Tin the end using fluxite (dip the cable in), multicore and the pencil blowtorch
3. Fit the nipple to the cable - may need a little bit of heat if the tinning was a bit generous
4. With the cable protruding about 1/8" - 3/16" past the countersunk end of the nipple heat the nipple (not the cable) till the solder flows
5. Wait till the solder sets
6. Hold the cable vertically in the vice jaws (not too tight) with the nipple resting on the top of the jaws
7. Gently tap the protruding cable end with a small hammer to open it out a bit
8. Using a centre pop splay the cable end out till it seats in the counterink
9. Heat the nipple up again till the solder flows then fill the countersink / splayed end with solder
10. Clean up with a small flat file.

Work for me.....

[themoudie]

Tidy!