Honda CB250 rs headlight bulb

[guest1017]

Hi all
the headlight bulb on my CB250rs is a bit dim so i decided to swop the bulb for a halogen  from Wemoto, problem is the buld that arrived is an H4 and will not fit my rs, does anybody know the correct halogen bulb number for the rs. 
Ian
Happy new year to you all

[guest1017]

Hi All
The local car parts store had the correct halogen bulb on the shelf, it's a Lucas bulb part number LLBO12 12v 60/55 p45t H4 , this is loads brighter than the OE bulb , well worth fitting for about £5 .
 rgds Ian

[Dick Scratcher]

Does the charging system manage alright with a bulb of that consumption ?, do the flashers still work at low revs ?.

                                                              Regards,     Dick Scratcher.

[guest1017]

Hi
The RS charging systen copes fine with the halogen bulb , the indicaters work ok even with the brake light on , tickover is set at 1200 rpm , i have used a halogen bulb on my winter hack 250rs for 4 years with no problems , i keep the headlight on all the time while i'm riding .
Ian

[Dick Scratcher]

Hi
The RS charging systen copes fine with the halogen bulb , the indicaters work ok even with the brake light on , tickover is set at 1200 rpm , i have used a halogen bulb on my winter hack 250rs for 4 years with no problems , i keep the headlight on all the time while i'm riding .
Ian

Thanks Ian, sounds like a good result all around, I'll invest in one.
                                                              D.S.

[Dick Scratcher]

Before I lashed out on one of those halogen bulbs I took a critical look at the lamp generally and decided to ditch it, after thirty years it was in a pretty poor state so I purchased a pattern Yamaha 'Elsie' one complete with halogen bulb for £25. I had to 'modify' the access hole at the rear to get those 'gang' plugs in but other than that it was dead easy and what a dramatic difference. I suppose I'll now have to prepare myself for the coming verbal attacks from the anal originality anoraks with "That's not original, and neither is that silver coloured sleeving on the clutch cable". You'd think by doing things like this that I'd drawn a pair of specs and a moustache on the Mona Lisa.

                                                Regards to all........................Dick S.

[guest7]

I wouldn't worry about it if I was you... my brother has much deeper issues with his CB250RS. A local (very good) mechanic was trying to remove a seized engine mounting bolt (the engine was out and on his bench) and he managed to knock the whole lug clean off! The crankcases are now VERY well ventilated.

He will have to counter all sorts of anorak complaints about the welded repair.

GC

[Dick Scratcher]

Jeez Onepot what the Hell was that (very good) mechanic doing to belt an engine mounting lug off ?, using brute force especially on Japanese engines is a no-no. If a bit of carefully applied heat doesn't do the trick it's out with the drills and use patience, suspect he was a bit short on the latter but then if he's charging by the hour it might explain matters. No matter how good a welder is that crankcase is going to look a bit of a mess on completion. Not nice.
                                                            Regards...............Dick S.

[guest7]

Well I talked to said mechanic today and he said that he had applied heat using oxy-acetyline, but it just broke away without warning when tapped. This bloke is a legend amongst South Wales motorcyclists and doesn't do rushing or the like. He had just removed a similarly seized rear bolt before the attempting the front lug.

The worst thing is that the bolt could have stayed in place, it was just bolted to the front U plate and the engine could have been slotted back with no bother. He just gave it a go because he had the oxy and tools required all out on the bench after doing the back bolt. The mechanic is as sick as the rest of us.

GC

[Steve H]

From memory my RS was the same, one of the the front engine bolts had corroded so badly it had expanded enough to crack the engine mount. It didnt leak so I left well alone.

[Dick Scratcher]

I've never been impressed with the materials that Jap engines are made of, where really good stuff is needed, that's what it gets but that general alloy used in crankcases reminds of the old Austin Maestro door handles, high zinc content and the first time it's seriously tested it breaks. It's obviously good enough for what it's intended and for the expected life of the vehicle but I dont think the manufacturers anticipated BOFs like myself trying to keep the things running indefinitely, in my case thirty years. A friend of mine bought a '96 GPZ900 and had the same problem getting the rear engine mounting bolts out.........alloy of sorts vs steel of sorts + moisture............Hell of a job.........heat and measured brute force over several hours worked. The bottom line I suppose is that nothing beats quality materials in the first place but that doesn't make for maximum profit does it ?.
                                                                    Best to all..............Dick S.

[guest7]

A couple of years ago I stripped a BMW twin (R80) down to the last nut and bolt. It had been stood in a garden for nearly eight years (and it was quite old before it was laid up). Every nut undid and every bolt came out of every alloy casting.

It's exactly as you have just said, it's all down to the quality of the materials used in the first place.

GC