fuelling problem??

[boze]

right, i was out on it this evening, didnt stray too far from home but still did about 35 miles and all seems to be well

she seems a bit louder than she used to but then its a diferent kind of sound, probably because the old exhaust gasket was smooshed to little bits!!

about two thirds of the way through the run she started feeling a bit funny and backfired a hell of a lot when i closed off the throttle, when i got home i noticed that the air/fuel screw on the carb had rattled itself off!!!!!! ive refitted it to the correct depth (1 7/8 turn) and plastered it with gaffa tape until i can get some superglue tomorrow!!!

so basically i think everything is ok, im still extremely nervous about her breaking down on the way to work tomorrow...

hopefully ill be able to make the rally in june but 'er indoors has been coniving with her dad and has produced pictures and adverts for a vfr750 she wants me to buy "when" i sell the sr500...i have to talk sense to her!!

damo

[Steve H]

If you have to use threadlock dont superglue it, youll never be able to adjust it again

[boze]

is there a certain product that is readily available?

damo

[pigafetta]

A tiny spot of nail varnish might do the trick. I use it on the bridge adjusters on my guitar. If I ever need to adjust them it cracks off when you turn the screws but is strong enough not to vibrate loose. And wives have loads of it.

Dave B

[boze]

A tiny spot of nail varnish might do the trick. I use it on the bridge adjusters on my guitar. If I ever need to adjust them it cracks off when you turn the screws but is strong enough not to vibrate loose. And wives have loads of it.

Dave B

minted idea!! ive always used a tiny bit of enamel paint for my guitar bridge

damo

[boze]

i hope this is the end of the sr500 saga and would like to take this opportunity to thank each and every person who has helped me through it

i just noticed that this thread has more replies than any other thread in the whole forum!

i hope to meet a fair few of you on the scottish rally.

peace

Damo

[boze]

maybe im just looking for problems now but theres a rather annoying clicking from the cylinder head, i gather this is the rockers but should they be so loud?

peace

Damo

[cloggy]

Set the tappets[valve gear adjusters to dampen 'clicking'] and the cam chain tensioner by the book. Actually before you start adjusting them check if they are correct in the first place [appropriate feeler guage should slide smoothly between the gap, but not a thicker feeler guage] If they are correct or very slightly loose [say 15% over setting] LEAVE THEM ALONE
If it still sounds noisy don't worry. It's an air cooled 500cc single with only two valves so they are going to sound louder than itsy bitsy valves on a water cooled 4valve per head 4 3 or 2 cylinder machine.
Do not be tempted to set the tappets tighter[quieter] than the manual tells you. If you do the valves will burn out.
As for the carb idle adjustment don't set it rigidlyly at 7/8. that's your starting point, that's why it is adjustable.
With the bike  ticking over make tiny adjustments each way, feeling if the bike is ticking over faster or slower. If it picks up speed then wind back the throttle stop until it slows down a bit . What you want to end up with is a slow even tickover that doesn't die if you open the the throttle quickly. Generally turning the idle mixture in richens the mixture [but only on the tickover /idle circuit. However if it is running happily LEAVE IT ALONE!
Also you might mention to your beloved that any problems you encounter on an aged VFR are going to make your present problems seem like a walk in the park/ and be very expensive.

[boze]

thanks for the tremendously perfect answer!!!!!

yeah ive told the missus how much harder things will be on a multi cylinder bike as ive only ever had singles!

one more quick question, are these bikes prone to overheating? i could feel the heat off mine through the petrol tank today! probably because the oil goes in the frame and the tank is wrapped around it! ive seen oil temp guages that screw straight into where the dipstick goes and ive also seen bolt on liquid coolers, are any of them reccomended?

regards

Damo

[cloggy]

www.yamaha-xt500.com will tell you about the aftermarket oilfeed line that feeds the exhaust rockers first instead of the stupid wrong way round standard set up. Your bike may already have it, it's a popular mod. Apart from that they don't have a rep for overheating, though if they are anything like my sp/dr 400 engines they will feel very hot.
I woudn't be tempted to use syntheticic oil though. I did and I've just installed a new piston rather earlier than normal. I think it picked up all the gunk hiding in odd corners, this being a wet sump motor it spashed up the barrel when I was rallying it over bumpy ground and wore it out. The oil control rings and the barrel were worn, the piston and compression rings seemed fine. About £180 that cost me, of course it may just have been that I was thrashing the nuts off it...

[boze]

i cant get on that site, they arent accepting new members.

sucks.

ill have a look around and see what i can find, the oil i got recently is semi synthetic, should i change it again and go back to non-synthetic?

Damo

[guest18]

It's generally recommended that you DON'T replace mineral oil with (fully) synthetic oil, or vice versa. Semi synthetic however IS fine to use after mineral oil. I've been doing it for years on older bikes.
My XBR gets semi synthetic about every 1500 to 2000 miles (or it did while it was in use!!) as a precautionary measure against the quick wear cam followers and it was fine
If you choose to use normal mineral oil that's fine but many people recommend throwing the manufacturers recommended oil changes out the window and just changing it every 1000 miles, filters every second change...
Oil is cheap, engine work expensive

Of course all of the above is IMHO and it's up to you what you choose to do!!

[cloggy]

Smudge is spot on. The Yamaha website has got bits open to non memebers. The oil line thread was recently one of them
www.thumpertalk.com will get you advice[vintage forum, there will already be a thread, do a search] also www.thumperstuff.com/srxttt.html will take you to the part you need and the dollar's dirt cheap at present. They might take a Western Union transfer if you want to risk it, I have in the past [though I got sent the wrong wheel, not from this mob though]

[cloggy]

sorry  www.thumperstuff.com/SRXTTT.html   in capitals

[guest7]

Thread is hard to find, but here's what people say:

Yes. You come off the stock hard line (the one that goes to the intake side at the base of the motor). They make a kit what you get is a longer banjo bolt where the stock one is at you tie in the newbanjo bolt there.On the exaust side you take out the chrome bolt and you use the stock banjo bolt that you took out early and tie in there. The kit contains a longer banjo bolt the new oil line and a new fiiting that goes on the exaust side. The kit is supposed to keep the exause and intake side cool with oil. I just put one in 2 days ago.

You can get them from www.thumperstuff.com they are $48.00. It is called 1 1/2 high volume kit. You use existing oil line plus the high volume line to the exaust valve. He's got a lot of cool stuff.

check eBay seller "biebo" from Germany. He sells a dual top end oil line kit (single line with dual outlets for exhaust and inlet side of rocker box). I've fitted three of them to SR's and one to a TT and they work great. I also have a set of upper and lower oil lines that billalb made from my stock lines and they're great.

HTH
GC

p.s. and $48 is really cheap these days