#1 srx is playing up

[Steve Lake]

She's been getting a bit shirty of late (bit like SWMBO), thankfully i've found the problem with #1, (one out of 2 can't be bad  )
poor starting (has always started first or 2nd kick), backfiring on overrun, poor or no tickover.... blockage in fuel tap/filter, easily remedied (tap kit & new filters), and intake manifolds (or as yamaha like to call them 'joint carburetor 1'), unbonded, i.e. l/h one one completely separated.
So, out comes trusty microfiche, identify 1jk part number (for those of an inquisitive nature l/h 1jk-13586-01-00. r/h ijk-13596-01-00. the l/h unit has vacuum take off, hence different part numbers).
check with my (really great blokes) local yamaha dealer, numbers are superceded but thats not a problem, they always cross reference... £60 a pop!!!...
now, as it happens, i use i think, slightly different ones,( in that i think they are a tad shorter),  and have the prefix 43F, as it turns out, that is the prefix for XT600 machines, the following number is the same and brings up 'joint carburetor 1' ... £68 a pop !!!
done the google/ebay/amazon stuff, nice cheap ones in Aus.... by the time i get them here... not cheap.
now... has anyone successfully repaired these?.. i know this is a fairly common issue, so some clever penny pincher in the club must have managed a fix (are you out there Andy  )
I'm thinking of heating up the metal part then pushing it back into the rubber sleeve to see if it bonds, or maybe one of the super glues about , like 'stiks like sh*t' or similar?...
all ideas greatfully received....
UNLESS ... anyone has some for sale ??
pip pip

[Steve Lake]

Well, i have tried the glue method, will have to wait 'til tomorrow to see if it's a go-er. in the meantime i spent lunchtime crawling over the interjungle, and came up with these helpful guys
http://www.nichecycle.com/ncs/categories/carburetor/flanges-adapters/101-0856-yamaha-xt-tt600-oe-style-left-side-carburetor-flange-43f-13586-01-00-by-ncs.html

a total of $51.05 shipped to my door... and that is for the PAIR .... oh, it did include a proper bloke to bloke conversation over the old fashioned blower to establish postal rates etc, and he helpfully pointed out they did the pair as a kit, rather than me buying each one seperately and paying more for them and more on the shipping.
£40... a saving of £80 on uk yamaha prices .... mind you, not got them yet... might be rubbish (i'm assured they arn't, as lots of their XT owning customers will testify)
i wonder if they stock SRX kickstart levers ... ho hum... just a thought
pip pip

[CrazyFrog]

Good find - hope they fix your issues Steve.

I'm sure I have an article cut out of Classic Motorcycle Mechanics or some such magazine where they tested some sort of rubber renovation product. I seem to vaguely recall that it involved boiling the rubber in some sort of chemical to revitalise it, and then repairing with some sort of vulcanising stuff. I'll see if I can dig it out if I can, just for interest. Buying new at a good price is clearly a much better option though!

[timbo]

Yes, I remember following the advice in an article about how to rejuvenate hardened rubber inlets. I think it involved wintergreen oil 

[Ian]

Hi Steve, don't know if you were jesting in your posting but I still have a genuine SRX kickstart complete with new genuine Yamaha rubber and spring. I can also supply the detent ball bearing if needed. Pm me if interested.
Regards Ian

PS... Have you tried softening the rubber with brake fluid?

[Steve Lake]

thanks for that Ian, will be in touch about the lever...
It's not the flexibility of the rubber that is the issue, it's the fact that the metal insert has come away, so need to find a way of fixing back in. vulcanising, bonding etc....

[Ian]

Steve, I am reliably informed that "JB Weld" will stick most materials. I have a similar problem so will be watching this thread with interest.
Ian

[timbo]

I used a product called Q Bond to repair two sets of carbs, amongst other things. I was suitably impressed with the results. the whole story was posted on 28 Jan, 2015. Better to read it there as I cant remember all the details. Put in a search on this site for carb repair, and Timbo in the posted bit, and it should come straight up. Good luck 

[Steve Lake]

there you go ... I KNEW there'd be someone with info ,,,.... cheers guys ...  will heck out all the suggestions and posts

as i've had to take the tank off it seemed like an opportune time to give it a respray, so all plastic is now removed as well, & #1 grandson is rubbing down filling and undercoating, (obviously this will cost me, as he's just finished skool, having completed his gcse's, so will be strapped for cash until he finds gainful summer employment  )

[SRXpatriate]

I repaired those manifolds successfully a good few years ago with stuff called Sikaflex. It's a permanently flexible black rubbery adhesive, if I remember correctly primarily used for marine applications.

[Steve Lake]

thanks for that, will check it out

[themoudie]

Aye Steve et al,

Sorry to miss this posting, been at the Bob Mac meeting at East Fortune all weekend! 

Not only had both inlet stubbs completely separated on the project SRX, they had been stuck together using guttering asphalt mastic!    You couldn't see the problem until the heat from the motor and the ethanol (petrol) caused the carbs to droop and the mastic to ooze from the splits! 

I would suggest that you give this man a call! Yambits.

Link: XT600E-inlet-manifold-carb-rubber-kit

Rapid service and of good quality!

If you have rubber parts that are becoming brittle/hard, soak them in ArmorAll for at least 24 hours, massaging the liquid into the item at least twice whilst soaking. Wipe off any excess after soaking and before fitting. You will notice the difference and have nice soft fingers for the missus as a bonus! 

If you want to try sticking detached rubber seals to the metal cores of the inlet stubs then Black Gorilla 'Snot' sealant takes some beating.

Another sealant/glue is CT1. This stuff comes in a range of colours from your local builders merchant and you could be surprised at what it is used for in holding your house together!    Once cured it is very good. 

Link:CT1_info_sheet

Toodle pip, Bill

[Steve Lake]

Cheers Bill, i knew you'd arrive here at some point  , will check out your proposals today, as you say, the heat and fuel these items are subjected to rules out most adhesives, but it'd be good to find something that works, i will then at least have a working pair in the spares mountain .
pip pip

[Steve Lake]

bu55er bu55er bu55er!!.... Bank holiday Monday, lovely day, fettled #1 ready to join #1 Son at the Fenman classic bike show, set off ... stopped to fill up with fresh petrol, headed west on the good old A47, snicked into 5th on the swaffham bypass, horrible noise and no drive.... dropped down to 3rd and came to a halt, obviously 5th had disintegrated.... bike would run in 2nd, so headed home at 10mph, expecting a lockup or complete grenade of cluster, but got home ok , so now i have a winter project.... will probably go for a complete strip down with attention to head and hone the bore with new rings etc .... just hope i can get gearbox parts ... judging from Bills previous posts.... it could get a bit pricey 

will miss the manx as well 

pip bluddy pip

[CrazyFrog]

Bu55er indeed, very bad luck. Hope it doesn't turn out to be too costly.